Page 26 - HPIC-Magazine (Feb-2021)
P. 26

Cover Story


        better, especially when it comes to   more than before the pandemic, that   The product mix itself has been

        ingredient safety and shelf-life.  their products are safe, ethically  turned upside down during this
        According to Mintel research on clean  sourced and produced, and effective.  period: the wearing of masks has led
        beauty, more than one in 10 adults  They are paying closer attention to  to a drop in the use of lipstick, in
        agree clean products expire too  advertising and packaging claims,  favour of eye make-up, and hygiene
        quickly. More than ever, consumers  and expect claims to be clearly sub-  products have been propelled to the
        will scrutinize ingredient safety and  stantiated when challenged.  forefront. Discretionary expenses like
        evaluate the risk of possible product                               fragrances, hair styling products, and
        contamination and expiration. The  New channels to market           make-up has significantly reduced as
        future of clean ingredient formula-   Diversion from offline to online  a consequence of COVID-19. Con-
        tions will rely on safe synthetic  is an immediate necessity, accord-  sumers are mainly spending on basic

        ingredients,  which  may  improve  ing to Euromonitor, but building on  necessities such as hand wash, body
        shelf-life.                       the digital activation and omnichan-  wash, and lotions.
                                          nel strategies already observed pre-
        Supply chain challenges           COVID-19 will need a refocus in the   Corporate performance seemed to
           A major issue that affects all  context of a more pronounced need for  bear out these trends. Sales of cos-

        supply chains, including natural  virtual experiences alongside new  metics business segment of Kao Cor-
        ingredients, is that during the lock-  points of sale within social networks  poration decreased by 11.4% in the
        down countries closed their borders  and livestreaming, outlet numbers,  first quarter of 2020, compared to the
        or raised trade barriers. As a result,  in-store experiences and product   first quarter of 2019. Revlon, Inc., a
        producers and exporters were fac-  curation, given that physical shopping  cosmetics company, saw decrease in
        ing high competition to export their  is still a much-preferred choice for  sales by 18.1% in the first quarter of
        goods. Air freight has been signi-  many consumers, including the all-  2020, as compared to first quarter of
        ficantly  reduced  for commercial  important Gen-Z.                 2019.
        use, while many goods are usually
        shipped via this means of transport.   While online will inevitably gain   While COVID-19 led to a reduc-
        Therefore, producers faced difficul-  a  larger  share  after  the  pandemic,  tion by consumers on discretionary
        ties to honour their orders and busi-  stores will need to reinvent.  expenses (e.g., fragrances, hair styl-
        ness slowed down.                                                   ing products), spending on basic
                                          Drop in revenues                  necessities was relatively protected
        Sustainability to the fore           According to estimates by Kline &   (e.g., personal liquid soap, hand and
           One unexpected impact of the  Co., a consultancy, the cosmetics  body lotions).
        pandemic related to sustainability  and toiletries market was heading
        is the heightened appeal for both  toward the sharpest decline ever    According to Coherent Market In-
        manufacturers and consumers of local   recorded in the 60-plus years Kline  sights (CMI), brands such as Kiehl’s,
        products with short distribution  has been tracking the market, with a  Lancôme, and Helena Rubinstein,
        channels.                         decline of 5% likely in 2020.  In com-  which have a large proportion of
                                          parison, during the 2009 recession,  skincare products outperformed the
           Consumers are also looking more  the market dipped by 0.8%. The only
        closely at the origin of their purchases,   other time Kline noted a decrease
        calling for products that are more  was a 0.3% falloff in 1991 amid
        effective, but also simpler – both in  another recession(3).
        terms of their composition and their
        use: lighter or even elimination of   According to estimates by Kantar,
        packaging; use of recyclable bottles;  in China, before COVID-19 hit, the
        etc. are tending to become more  personal care market was forecast to
        widespread. The useful outweighs  grow 9% in 2020, but is now on track
        the futile, and the players in the  for a 5% decline. In South Korea, the
        sector understand that this trend,  market has shrunk by 8%, compared
        “clean beauty”, or “green beauty”,  with expected growth of 4.8%. The
        is set to continue.               impact has been lower in Thailand,
                                          where the sector was expected to re-  Fig. 2: Pre- and post-COVID markets for
                                                                                   personal care ingredients
           Consumers are demanding, even  main flat, but has declined by 2.1%(4).  Source: Coherent Market Insights
        26                                            Home, Personal & Institutional Care India  February 2021
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