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DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION CONTROVERSIAL RU LING
Firmenich launches AI-augmented laundry care Leading cosmetics firms say ECHA is undermining

fragrances cosmetic animal testing ban

Beauty giants – Avon, L’Oréal, late), used exclusively in sunscreen ents without compromising human
Firmenich, Swiss privately-owned Procter & Gamble, Unilever and Lush – formulations, to fulfil ‘tick-box’ regis- safety.”
fragrance and taste company, has in- have joined Humane Society Inter- tration requirements for worker safe-
troduced laundry care fragrances that national in a public statement to ty under the REACH regulation. With no reaction yet from the
fuse Artificial Intelligence (AI) with oppose a recent ruling from the European Commission, the signatories
human creativity. ‘Unnecessary demands’
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) fear the two chemical ingredients
requiring tests to be performed on According to the signatories, the currently under ECHA’s scrutiny
Presented at the China Cleaning animals for certain ingredients used EU’s animal testing ban “success could be just “the tip of the iceberg”,
Industry Association (CCIA) confer- in cosmetics. These new rules are un- story is now being undermined” by with the ECHA and some Member
ence, the AI-augmented perfumer fra- dermining the EU’s cosmetic animal ECHA and its Board of Appeal, conti- States demanding new animal tests
grances are for use in a wide range testing ban, they say. nuing “the trend of systematically for cosmetics at a time when the rest
of laundry opportunities, including requesting unnecessary animal data of the world is taking action to elimi-
liquid detergents, fabric sprays and Under the EU’s Cosmetics Regu- despite a legal obligation to promote nate them.
powder detergents. lation, testing on animals is illegal; non-animal methods.”
however, cosmetics ingredients “This is a direct threat to the
“By harnessing the power of must also adhere to the Registra- They say that, far from ensur- EU’s historic ban on cosmetics ani-
AI and over 50 years of fragrance tion, Evaluation and Authorization of ing occupational safety for workers mal testing, which is widely support-
data, including scientific research, Chemicals (REACH) regulation. This in chemical manufacturing plants, ed by consumers and cosmetic com-
consumer insights, production and seeks to ensure people working with “these data demands are to ensure panies alike because causing animals
sales, Firmenich is reinventing fra- chemicals are safe to do so. However, ECHA has an administratively com- to suffer and die for beauty products
grance design through augmented mented creation, prediction and opti- in recent consumer research in to prove a material’s safety, animal plete set of data for hazard classifi- or their ingredients is both ethically
creation,” said Ms. Ilaria Resta, misation to provide bespoke sensorial China, as well as the same fruity tests could be required. cation and labelling, regardless of and scientifically unjustified. Chemi-
President, Global Perfumery. “AI is experiences faster and more efficient- and flowery liquid detergent scent The call comes in the wake of two whether additional data are in fact cal authorities need to urgently shift
now systematically empowering our ly than ever before,” noted Ms. Odile adapted to a spray format. decisions by the Board of Appeal of needed to ensure worker protection.” their perspective to embrace 21 cen-
st
perfumers to achieve their very best Pelissier, Senior Vice President, Crea-  Powder detergent: Technical ECHA last August, requiring Ger- They noted that the lessons tury science instead of dragging us
creations by identifying potential tion & Development, Global Perfu- freshness and performance with man chemicals manufacturer Symrise learned in animal-free safety assess- back to cruel and outdated animal
solutions across a complex combination mery. sparkling, zesty China citrus and to carry out several toxicity tests on ment of cosmetics over many years tests,” said Ms. Marina Pereira,
of parameters, including olfaction, a second citrus cologne scent con- animals on two chemical UV filters can be “readily applied to occupa- Humane Society International’s regu-
format, dosage, safety and sustain- Firmenich said by using AI to gene- cept. (homosalate and 2-ethylhexyl salicy- tional safety assessment of ingredi- latory science advisor.
ability,” she added. rate prototypes, “perfumers interact
with, accelerate speed-to-market, Valued just above $65-bn, the LEVERAGING CAPABILITIES
The AI technology featured in and create fragrances that suit the global fabric detergent market is pre-
these new laundry fragrances was nuances of each category and market, dicted to grow consistently over the Givaudan and Novozymes announce research
developed at the company’s d-lab to deliver the appropriate emotional next years. In China, the total deter-
facility, on the campus of EPFL, the experience for each consumer.” gent market over the past five years partnership
Swiss Federal Institute of Techno- grew at 4.9%, and was estimated
logy in Lausanne, Switzerland. d-lab The six AI-augmented perfumer to be around $10-bn last year. The Swiss fragrance & flavours firm, the world and creates the hold care and food & beverages,” the
is connecting perfumers worldwide fragrances launched for laundry care laundry category is experiencing the Givaudan, and Danish enzymes ex- emotional signatures and companies said.
with key experts on digital tech- include: convergence of many recent trends: pert, Novozymes, have announced food experiences for con-
nology to impact formula creation,  Liquid detergent: A modern new expectations from conscious the formation of a strategic research sumer brands. Novo- Together the two companies will
optimisation and performance. The freshness inspired by body care consumers; novel olfactive territories partnership for the development of zymes brings innova- work on specific projects with the aim
cross-functional team is developing fragrances with yuzu, a popular with complex formulation; emerging sustainable solutions in the areas of tion with extensive know-how in to bring to their respective customers
enhanced creation tools for perfumers Chinese ingredient, and a second formats with technical challenges; food and cleaning. enzymes and microorganisms with a differentiating solution offering.
and fragrance developers, as well as fruity and flowery feminine senso- and enhanced sustainability require- substantial investments in techno- With a significant overlap of end-use
intelligent models for laboratory and rial concept fashionable in China ments with stricter regulation. In “Givaudan brings the highest logy and R&D. On the commercial side, markets, there is a fundamental be-
production teams. now. this context, AI-augmented solutions investment in research and develop- Novozymes is in strong commercial lief that the partnership can generate
 Fabric spray: A natural, sweet help perfumers deliver additional ment in the industry, has an in-depth partnerships with some of the largest customer value by combining the two
“Firmenich is using AI in aug- gourmand profile, proven popular value, said Firmenich. understanding of consumers around companies in the industries of house- companies’ capabilities and solutions.
16 Home, Personal & Institutional Care India November 2020 Home, Personal & Institutional Care India November 2020 17